Emperor Couloir Torreys Peak Guide

May 22, 2023 The Virtual Sherpa Comments 0 Comment

Emperor Couloir on Torreys Peak is about a 3,000ft couloir that is a great line for snow climbing and a ski/board descent on the North side of this popular 14er. The couloir is steep, around 40 degrees on average, getting closer to 50 near the summit. This is a north facing line which means that it will usually hold snow into early to mid June. The approach to Emperor Couloir depends on snow conditions – starting from either I70 or the Grizzly Gulch TH. Your approach and walk out will likely vary a lot depending on the snow levels in the surrounding valley.

Emperor Couloir Quick Facts

Virtual Trail Guide: Emperor Couloir Torreys Peak

Emperor Couloir Rating: ★★★★ (4/5 Stars)

Distance: 8.5 Miles From I70 TH, 6.5 Miles From Lower Grizzly Gulch TH

Elevation Start: 9,784ft I70 TH, 10,311ft Lower Grizzly Gulch TH

Summit: 14,267ft

Total Elevation Gain: 4,500ft (I70 TH), 4,000ft (Upper Grizzly Gulch TH)

Estimated Time to Complete: 6-8 Hours RT – depends on starting point

Difficulty: Difficult What does this mean?

Class: Class 2 – What does this mean?

Snow Climb Grade: Advanced– 40-50 degrees max

Season: January – June (May is best for continuous ski descent)

Check the Weather Forecast

Avalanche Forecast: This route and area is avalanche prone, check conditions here.

Directions to Emperor Couloir

Trailhead: Bakerville on I70 OR Lower Grizzly Gulch TH

Getting Here: From I-70, take the Bakerville exit and continue on to Stevens Gulch Road. If you are attempting this line earlier in the season, park off the highway and walk the rest of the way. From here, it’s about 1.25 miles to the upper TH. If you can drive, keep going until you reach your first road split and take a right. Park here unless you are 100% sure that the road is clear because after this point a high 4×4 is needed and turning around is likely going to be very difficult with any lingering snow. The map linked below shows the “upper” TH that is usually not accessed for this climb.

Parking: Your best bet for parking would be two spots: the road split/lower TH, if you can get there or down at Bakerville off I70. The I70 TH has plenty of parking but the lower Grizzly Gulch TH only has room for about 5-6 cars, if parked properly. Neither location has restrooms.

Fee: None

Summary

Dogs: I never recommend bringing a dog on any couloir -it’s irresponsible in my opinion.

Camping: There are a few camping spots along Stevens Gulch road before the lower Grizzly Gulch TH. However, in general, this is a very poor area to camp due to limited options and private land that surrounds the area. Camping in Bakerville lot is not allowed but could be used in a pinch.

Make it a Loop: Most people who climb the Emperor Couloir will descend down to the saddle of Grays Peak and take the standard trail out or ski/board down the Couloir itself. You could easily descend neighboring Y couloir or Dead Dog on skis/board or via plunge steps in a pinch. Just be aware that all of these lines are very popular and even on weekdays will usually have a handful of other people climbing and skiing in the area.

Trail X Factors: Snow Level

The snow level on any couloir is the x factor. It will determine how far you can drive/walk/skin on your approach, how avalanche conditions in the couloir are and how much rock fall will be a concern for you. Since this line is North facing, the sun usually does not affect this line until much later in the Spring/early Summer. However, the approach is a different story. It’s a fine line between hitting the Emperor Couloir in enjoyable/safe conditions and waiting too long so that your approach is not continuous snow and becomes a massive slog.

In addition to the obvious postholing that may await – snow levels will dictate how easy it is to cross a stream that you must get over at least two times if not four. The first two crossings are usually pretty easy, but when necessary the last two can be quite tricky.

Hike Tip(s): Anytime you are hiking a couloir, understanding avalanche conditions is key. Be sure to get off the snow early in the spring and make sure the snow is stable anytime you start the climb. Since this couloir is so long and very popular – I wouldn’t recommend it for anyone without prior snow climbing experience in addition to a knowledge of etiquette on how to handle other parties in a snow line.

When nearing the top of Emperor, climbers have two options: bear left for a steeper and more exposed climb or go left for a more east facing line that is still steep but not as sustained of a climb as the left side. Snow conditions may very well dictate which way you go up and down.

Best Views: Emperor offers so many opportunities for cool photos and unique views. When climbing the couloir, take a second to look down and behind you towards the beautiful basin and surrounding mountains. From the summit, views in all directions are beautiful with snow capped peaks and a unique view to neighboring Grizzly Peak D and next-door 14er, Grays Peak.